Day 7
I had planned to go to Pilak today. One of the things that I had to figure out was the mode of transport.
One of it included taking the bus from Udaipur to Jolaibari and the other one included taking the train.
I had spoken to the staff at the hotel about how to go there and luckily one of the staff was from that area and he suggested both ways and asked to call him in case of any assistance.
I decided to go via the train mode of transport which was quicker and showed only 10 minutes away from railways station a 3.3km distance on google maps.
Reached Jolaibari railway station and caught an auto to the market. On informing the driver on the share auto of visiting Pilak, he dropped me on the main road stating you will get auto from here to Pilak.
Given the experience, I had with the auto drivers here, I decided to check on google maps the distance by walking. It showed a good 2kms with an average time of 30-40 mins walk.
I decided to walk. From the time I got here, I never had walked enough for sightseeing and this seemed to be a good day to catch up on it. Before I embark on it, I decided to have a light meal as its was already noon.
This was such a good decision to walk, as I enjoyed every bit of it and gave my legs the workout that it needed.
As I got closer to the first site Shyam Sundar Tila, I found two local cyclist one an older guy and other relatively less younger slowing down the pace of the cycles and matching my steps. The older guy kept staring at me as he kept cycling at a slower pace.
I decided to say Hi and that got him to stop his cycle and start asking questions to me about where I am from and all that. Answered him and asked how far is the place and was told its nearby. The old guy left and now it was the turn of the other guy who seemed happy to see a tourist visiting the historical sites. Soon he too left.
The Shyam Sundar Tila was completely empty with the exception of a lady who was playing music on her phone and seemed to be the caretaker of the place.
Not much information is available about these sites, only stating that they were built around 9-10th century and who built them and why seemed to be kept as a mystery. There are total three sites in Pilak and they are dedicated to Buddhism & Hinduism sects.
There was terracotta carvings on the walls which gave an insight into that period and three idols of which two were over 6 feet in height but badly disfigured. There was no information available on who they were.
After spending sometime over there, I headed towards the second site Ancient Mound Pujakhola.
It was a bit of walk to the next site but the green fields spread across on both sides of the road certainly made up for it. I saw the signboard on the side of the road and could see a structure in middle of a farmland.
I confirmed with a passerby and that indeed was the second site. I walked in the middle of the farm and then found the gate to be locked. It was not locked with a lock per se but it was locked in such a way that it was not easy for me to open it.
I tried my luck with it and it wont open. Just as I was about to turn around. A man came out of nowhere and helped open the gate. I thanked him and was able to enter the site. It was a small site with again an idol carving of more than 6 feet albeit disfigured. Again, no details available anywhere on the site origins or description of the idol.
After clicking a few pictures, I decided to make my way to the last site which also included an ASI museum. This place was surprisingly the highlight especially the museum which holds the terracotta carvings which were well preserved and had many stories to tell. Sadly again one could not take photographs of it.
Again the site outside had idols/monuments which were disfigured and the description on it missing. I spend some time here seating under the shade of a huge tree spreading its branches whose name I did not know.
I decided to get an auto back to the railway station, but could not find any. I visited one of the shops for mineral water and there were people around chit chatting. My entrance got their attention and they went silent for a moment and one of them engaged in conversation with me. I asked if its possible to catch an auto and he suggested to walk stating it’s a 10 mins away from the railway station.
This route was different from the one I came through. I decided to rely on google baba and it did not disappoint as it took me through paths which I believe only locals use. I walked on the roads, then passing through houses and then on a nowhere land and following the directions of google landed up right at the station.
Sometimes google baba takes one through the less travelled path and makes one feel alive once you reach your destination.
The journey on the train was also very interesting. I had never seen so many spiders building intricate cobwebs inside the coach before. They were not your regular small spiders and it seemed to not bother the locals too.
I did not had much expectation from Pilak but the walk, interaction with locals and the serenity of the place with greenery all over made me relish the experience a lot more. The ASI museum is recommended if interested in ancient carvings.
Day 8
It was time to say goodbye to Tripura as I was traveling back to Mumbai today. Before that I had to catch a train to Agartala and then an auto to the airport. The trains run on fixed timings and had to wait for the train to arrive. I met the backpacker pair again and together we hopped on to the train and bid our goodbyes as we reached Agartala.
In terms of tourism, Tripura has a lot more to do to attract tourists and also offer last mile connectivity and guidance to ensure that they reach hassle free to those sites.
The auto driver menace is something to be dealt with in absence of public transport like buses in certain areas.
It would have been nice to have signage about the backgrounds of the site and idols that are being showcased to know more about the history of the place and its importance.
As a foodie, I missed having local food. One can find Bengali food over here, but the local food like Mui Borok, Bamboo Shoot, Chakhwi & Gudok, etc are not easily available. The restaurants over here offered the same cuisine that is available in urban city. Why not promote the local cuisine along with it?
Overall, Tripura has been a mixed bag of experience for me when it comes to traveling.
Hope you enjoyed reading about my travel experience and would love to your thoughts on it.