Got Leh'D

 

Finally it happened, I got leh'd.

I never thought that this day would come but you know what things don't happen on their own. You have to make them happen... Like I did.

This trip has been on my bucket list for the longest period of time or should I just say over a decade.

I have been practicing for this on the Mumbai roads for years during the monsoons when the water level would be way higher than it should be. Supposed to be the trial run for the water crossings that I would encounter over there.

I would be clueless in my initial years on how to plan this trip. These were the days when information was not easily available about planning such trips especially on a bike. What was amusing that there were other people who would get inspired by my other rides and go there.

The funny thing that I came across during writing this post was my tweet about doing a ladakh trip in 2015 and then surprisingly in 2020 I described it as my Eleanor. Something that I don't even remember.

I planned this trip within a month after coming back from my trip to Hampi, Aihole, Pattadakal & Badami caves. Out of nowhere I decided I have to make this happen. It was now or never.

Then began the research and yes the route that needs to be taken. I was adamant that I need to cover both Turtuk & Hanle which by the way very few travel operators offer together. In standard options its either one not both. Tso Moriri lake was like a add on.

I have to say that during my research of travel operators, it was Instagram that came in handy and helped widen the net and get in touch with them and not much of google. Finally I circled on one operator who was the only who offered all the three places in their package. 

Phir sochna kya tha. Book kar diya.( There was nothing to think further and went ahead and booked it)

This was going to be another solo traveling but with a group tour. I have never done a group tour except for the one I took with my family to Ashtavinayak Yatra ages back. This was going to be interesting, should I say very interesting :)

On top of that I had to decide if I want the bike on a sharing basis or as a solo. I initially thought sharing would be good, since I don't know how good or bad the terrain is. Having a pillion is better if we can share our rides and expenses too.

Then again riding solo on that terrain is something what the ladakh bike trip is all about. 

Its almost is a rite of passage for any biker to conquer those mountain tops, passes and roads as its tests you on every nook & corner and to see if you have got it what it calls to be a RIDER!!

I must say the challenge to ride solo was tempting, very tempting.

Finally I decided it was going to be solo. What is life without a challenge? 

The most troubling part of this trip was packing the luggage that needed to be carried along. The caveat to this trip was that one cannot carry trolley suitcases beyond Leh and they have to be a backpack. 

I spend three anxious nights on how to do it and along with that the airlines luggage weight restriction and yes carrying a helmet, tank bag, riding jacket with protection gears & gum boots (yup you heard that right!)

In the end, I had to let go carrying my helmet & somehow managed to fit everything in the suitcase & check-in bag on the D-day.

On the D-day, it was the check-in counter that almost gave a heart ache. The junior airline employee checked the suitcase weight it just fell short of .50kg. Everything was going fine and he issued me the boarding pass as per his senior instructions on the adjacent counter. 

As I turned around, the senior employee asked me to weigh my backpack which truth be told was bigger than a standard size one. It came 1kg extra than it was supposed to be, however I was let go without any charges to be paid which was a relief.

Did I tell you that I was wearing my riding jacket on the flight as it was too heavy to put in one of those bags.

The flight took off and the two seats next to me was empty. In fact the flight was relatively not that full. I got to stretch my legs and sleep for a while in peace. 

The real fun began when the plan had to descend to make a landing on the Leh airport. 

Trust me, that is one hell of a joyride & anxious moments that no one talks about. The plane descends to a lower altitude, curves around a mountain behind which the airport lies and then out of nowhere would again ascend higher before again going low to make a landing. That felt like a trailer of this ladakh trip of what was to come...

The day I landed was supposed to be a rest day. Doing nothing and drinking water all day. Still ended visiting the Leh market and came back to the hotel on foot.

The next day we were allocated our bikes which were 500 cc royal enfield bikes. That day we visited places around Leh like Shanti Stupa, Magnetic Hill, Gurudwara, Hall of Fame, etc.

This was also my first group ride. My understanding of a group ride was that you stick together & follow a buddy system of helping people in case anyone is left behind. Then again the reality  was different.

This kind of worked in my favor as I ended up actually driving solo in such a scenic valley. It doesn't get better than this and was more than I could ask for.

I happened to be the only solo rider in the group. From time to time ladies would sit behind for a joy ride.

The route planned or circuit was Leh---Nubra Valley---Khardungla Pass---Turtuk---Hunder---Pangong Lake---Hanle---Umlingla Pass---Tsomoriri Lake---Leh

Each one of those places has its own story to tell.

I saw the Milky Way through naked eyes in the night. Turtuk was certainly worth a visit and the stories we heard from the hotel owner about the occupation of the land by the Indian army. Met the King too while visiting his palace. Saw natural cold storage. Visited the last India village.  Rode on a double humped camel & did archery. Captured a beautiful sunset in Hanle. Conquered the two highest passes in the world. Visited the lakes Pangong & Tso Moriri. 

Pangong looks more commercialized now with the Three Idiots scooters, bum seats almost everywhere. Tso Moriri on the other hand was quiet and serene. There was another lake that got my attention was Kyagar Tso . It took my breath away. 

Did I forgot to mention the animals that we came across? The marmots, horses, donkeys, sheeps and different kind of birds all witnessed over here. 

I also had celebrity sightings in the form of a stand up comedian who was flying to Leh on the same flight. I don't like that guy a bit. The other person was the politician Rahul Gandhi riding on a KTM 390.

Ladakh had me in bonds, the routes are so scenic that one is actually tempted to stop every now & then and capture them through your camera lens. Then again there are some experiences that needs to be felt and remembered for what it is & cannot be comprehended or captured. Its all about how it makes you feel.

It was not enough that the colors of the mountains were changing as we rode further but the contours, the texture of the mountains too along with the ever changing scenery. I have never seen a land which goes through so many terrain changes.

There was a moment when I was riding on a good patch of road and the landscape in front of me felt like a painting. It was surreal and definitely not a figment of my imagination. One has to see it to believe it.

Nature has its own way of surprising us, humans.

Off-roading has always got the better of me. The first time I did off-road was on a gravel of stones meant for road construction and going towards the Ajanta Ellora caves in 2018 which was a long stretch. Off-road for me meant that you have to fall at least once from your bike.

I had fallen from my bike thrice. Thankfully there were no major injuries except for scars left behind on my leg for falling on the engine which burned up my skin. 

This was not the making of those gravels, riverbeds, rocks & water crossings  which somehow I learnt my way to ride through it even though the rear tyre would keep shifting on its own making me think the next fall is not far behind.

It turned to be the sand which is so fine that you will never know what hit you. During my first fall I was full in control of the bike, riding well when out of no where I lost control in the sand and fell down. 

Thankfully there were other riders of another group behind me who helped me to pick up the bike which I thought I wont be able to do alone as it weighs around 200 kgs.

 The next two fall also happened on the sand and during both the times I was on my own with no human presence around. I ended up astonishing myself as I picked up the bike with ease. 

It was the third fall that got the better of the bike & I almost fell on my back flying instead of the usual sideways as I let go the bike during the fall on a climb which was again the sands. The handle got bent from one side and the crash guard came off from one end. This thankfully happened on the last day of the ride and was still manageable to ride as we were supposed to reach Leh that day.

In the midst of all these, I lost one of my shades which fell from my jacket thanks to the off-road & rumblers. 

I also got lost many times as one might know there are not many markers/signboards to let you know which way to go. It was fun on its own.

One of the things that I have not spoken about is the immense respect for our Indian Army. The respect that they command over the local people is for one to see. In fact there is a popular saying among the locals that children don't want to become doctor or engineers, etc. but want to join the Indian army.

I felt so proud when I used to salute them when I saw them passing by and they would reciprocate. They are doing so much yet its the people who live in harm's way know their importance and for most of us it means nothing in our day to day lives.

Ladakh has so much to offer and its still so raw even though commercialization has picked up  its pace. Its something that the locals and even I dislike as they believe the charm of the place could be lost in the coming years. 

As the plane took off from the runway, I looked outside to those mountains, the only thing that I  bought with myself was loads of memories for a life time. 

As I turned around my gaze, there was a sheepish smile on my face as I was screaming on top of my voice inside my head saying "I got Leh'd"

What about you? Still thinking...

P.S. I know this has been a long post and could have been even longer as I omitted to write about certain things/stories/places, about the people with whom I traveled and on. Something ugly also took place on the second last night of the trip which I will share in my coming post.  

This post is all about my experiences of Ladakh. The fun, the adrenaline rush, serenading the mountains & what nots. Did not want to ruin it by writing negative incidents. 

Till we meet again. Julley!!